| WHAT IS THE HEART AND SOUL OF SURFING NOW?
The definition of thr Heart and Soul of Surfing today seems to have
changed from what it was originally when surfing and surfers were
simple and innocent. Surfing was a graceful solo dance on the sea
with no evil overtones,just friends and family playing in the ocean.
Surfers' ideals
were destined to change,for like the ocean swells,new ideas appear on
the
scene,make a big splash,only to dissipate quickly to make room for a
new
set of waves or opinions.
So then,what does remain at the Heart and Soul of this "Sport
of
Kings" and are there any Soul-Surfers among us still expressing
the
original vision? Because without soul there is no vision and without
vision the surfers will perish. Therefore if the present views are
amiss then an acknowledged master surfer is needed to demonstrate the
way back to right ideals. To illustrate this loss of soul or
direction amongst surfers,one has only to look at the images they
embrace as their identity. In particular is the lifeless human skull
prevalent throughout the entire surfer culture. It's common knowledge
that the skull and bones is the universal symbol for poison and death
and it stands to reason that anyone who adopts it as their icon,even
if in ignorance, are identifying with evil.
However, not all surfers embrace this death-mask as representative
of
their views,but use other more positive symbols of expression. The
most natural one being the porpoise, the "other" surfer of
the sea.
Since ancient times and in all cultures,this graceful creature has
represented
life-saving unselfishness and for a very humane reason. Their offspring
are born beneath the waves and the natural instinct of any porpoise
is to
push the helpless creature to the surface for a life giving breath.
It's
ironic that the porpoise,just like surfers,love to ride coastal waves
and
by being there in the surf have actually saved fallen surfers from
drowning by pushing them back to the surface.
Now then,who is going to save surfing from sinking in a sea of
idolatry due to lack of vision? To answer this question, I look back
to the very first recorded surfing event and the lessons those early
surfers
taught me. I found the story in the new testament, Matthew-Chapter 14
vs. 24-33, that gives the account of the men who "walked on the
waves,"
very much like what surfers do today. As the story goes a certain Galilean
surfer known as Jesus was showing his team members how to overcome fear
and experience the exquisite joy of wave-walking. Observing The Master,the
novice,Peter,wanted to try this amazing feat,whereby Jesus beckoned
him to
"Come on in." Peter responded by stepping out of the boat
and began
cruising across the surf. But alas,like somesurfers even today,he took
his
eyes off of the teacher and turned his attention to the waves instead.
This choice caused him to doubt what he was doing,whereupon he began
to
immediately to sink,crying out "Lord,Save Me!" Jesus,like
a life-saving
porpoise,instinctively pulled him back to the surface and as they
re-entered the boat he asked Peter, "Why did you doubt yourself?"
So, what is the message of this story? Well, I see it like this.
CAMARADERIE and ENCOURAGEMENT have,and will always be at the HEART and
SOUL
of surfing. There are no superstars so accomplished that they can't
share
the waves with willing beginners. In fact, it's an open invitation from
the very KING of this "Sport of Kings," to catch the real
vision which is
that we are all called to step out on faith,try the impossible and if
on
your walk you come across someone sinking in a sea of disbelief,reach
out
and save them. Then you too will be a true soul-surfer with a heart
like
he who mastered it first.
May The Porpoise Be With You
GLOBAL SURF NETWORK,resident writer - CHIP McQUILKIN
Article submitted by Global Surf Network
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