WHY SURF ?
by Rob Beedie
As I awoke this morning my first vision was of a head high ground swell pitching over into a perfect barrel. No one out and the sunrise as beautiful as they come. It is a time best described by my son, Corey, as a special time before the world wakes up.

The waves are there to be enjoyed with whomever claims the right to what is known only to surfers as Dawn Patrol. A time when Pure Stoke fills your entire being. A special time for which memories are made. A time of sharing and a time to hone or a time to develop your skills at wave riding but most importantly a time for reflection of ones inner self in relationship to ones personal blessings. A time to be thankful that you surf.

As I watch these perfect waves peel one after the other and my coffee is about gone or at least getting colder I realize it is time to paddle out. Enough unridden waves have gone by and as I engulf myself in the paddle out I visualize myself inside, deep inside one of those jewels. The paddle out was blissful as the sun projected an array of colors upon the glassy mirror like swells. It was only the beginning of what would become to me what us surfers have come to know as a YESTERDAYS' SWELL. A swell ;which, memories are made of. I was consumed in the moment as I was turning to pick off my first wave of the day. No one was out or for that matter no one was even on the beach. As I eased easily into the wave it jacked quickly and was faster than it had looked. I adjusted accordingly and broke my fins loose in order to side slip to the bottom as the lip would consume me as my fins bit again to execute control as I was deep inside. For a first wave it was more than expected to set off the rhythm of the day. A tube ride of endless proportions on an unexpected late takeoff on the first ride of the day. I was STOKED to say the least and quickly remembered Why I Surf?

It seemed like time just flew by ride after ride. The swell picking up with the incoming tide. It was about 11:00 a.m. now and the party crowd was now on the beach wiping their hung over eyes
out from the night before. I knew the morning mood was soon to change. As the mood changed ever so quickly almost as quickly as the crowd the noise level increased, also. You could hardly hear the hissing of the waves silently calling you to take off.

It was drowned out by the pecking order of the animalistic calling of "my wave - I got it - don't go. Wave after endless wave that was formed out of perfection was now being consumed by a breed of surfer that stakes their claim at the expense of others.

As I waited patiently for the set wave which peaked way outside I new this was a magic wave because it was setting up just perfectly with the right amount of pitch. As I set my bottom turn and trimmed high and set my rail the speed was enormous. It was at that moment I once again became completely and I mean completely covered as I screamed at the top of my lungs with JOY. At that very moment an explosion took place or was it a collision. It was the hardest wipeout that I ever remembered on a wave that I knew I was going to make. The last thing I heard was a loud yell - MY WAVE!!!!!

It was then that I realized the power that wiped me out wasn't the wave at all it was a loose board that had hit me right above the rib cage knocking the wind right out of me.
Aggression was everywhere. The lineup had turned into a battle zone with everyone claiming rights and no one sharing.
Thank GOD that morning was gone and late afternoon was upon us. I caught a wave in after this incident only to catch a few smirk smiles from the invaders as if they were glad that I was leaving.

It was time anyhow as my arms were turning to jelly and the winds had begun to blow slightly side shore. Before I reached the beach quite a gale began to blow as an afternoon storm was quickly approaching. Lightning began to strike periodically running the remaining two dozen or so from the lineup. As they walked by me I heard the usual bitching and griping about how this place sucks - that it always blows out and the waves are too crowded. As they threw their bottles and fast food morning trash
out the car windows they zoomed off without even noticing that the swell had actually picked up to well overhead due to the approaching storm and a rainbow was busting on the horizon. Wait a minute a double rainbow with its' pot of gold - yes a pot of gold that only a true surfer could enjoy and I was about to do just that.

The gold was the offshore winds had returned, the swell had increased, the late afternoon glass off had begun and luckily no one was out. I had natures invitation once again to come dance with her alone.

As I waxed back up I couldn't believe my eyes. The colors were
outstanding and the waves were the best that I had ever seen.

I stood up and picked my board up to lean it against the deck as I went inside to call a few of my best friends. I then called my son
and invited them down to share the magic. I told them to drop what they were doing - just do it - you won't believe it.
I told them that I would meet them on the outside. They said that they would be here in about ten minutes. I immediately hung up and paddled out.

After a few waves I noticed my friends had arrived. They were jumping up and down on the beach as kids. I noticed one of my friends leaned over - picked up the trash - as the others paddled out. He then raised his hand waving it in my direction and yelled OUTSIDE. I turned too late and this rogue wave blasted me with tons of white water pushing me well inside. As I resurfaced I realized as I looked around my friends laughing as we paddled out together. They thanked me for calling and said that they owed me one.

Another set wave was coming in as we reached outside and as I turned around I said to them - How about the one you owe me?
They all said go ahead. Little did I know that my friend who was standing on the beach was about directly in front of the impact zone by now. As I came plowing out of this overhead tube I heard this yell, a scream from a friend, and as I made my exit I saw his supporting grin and hands held way over his head as if approving of what he had just witnessed. He also thanked me for calling him and said to me what a JOY that last ride was. It was as if he had ridden it himself. We laughed and smiled as kids.

Now as we paddled out together we were almost outside when we noticed the remaining group of our friends stroking for the same wave way outside. They all took off turning and carving themselves silly and all of a sudden they all kicked out and as we witnessed this we realized my son was deep really deep in the barrel yelling his brains out. The wave exploded and out he flew with and amazing flying kick out. Everyone was yelling, laughing, and sharing the waves of our lives.

Now we were all outside smiling and laughing as kids. Now we would enjoy the last few hours before sunset, together.

As I experienced this session I clearly remembered - Why I Surf.

Morning Sessions, Afternoon Glass offs, Friends & Family, and sharing a blessing with others that has enriched my life so much.

Days like today - the lightning storms & the rainbows is - Why I Surf - HOW ABOUT YOU ?

Article submitted by Global Surf Network